Seasoned travel expert John Walsh shares his ultimate guide to Carnival in Rio De Janerio

Wow! Rio Carnival! One of the world’s greatest festivals. The colour, the costumes, the partying – the Brazilians! Yes, it’s all of that but come prepared. It’s an assault on the senses and sometimes just an assault.

Carnival draws about two million people a day onto the streets making it a magnet for pickpockets and muggers. That doesn’t mean it’s not fun, it just means you have to be careful and follow some sensible advice. 

So here are some tips to help make your stay safer and more fun.

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Where to stay in Rio

I stayed in  the Centro area or Downtown area near the port. Bad idea. The hotel was OK but the neighbourhood was not. Bad sign when reception staff advise you to wait in the lobby until your Uber or Taxi arrives, not on the street out front. Outside was scary at night and even unsettling during the day.

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I’ve been in quite a few dodgy places around the world but never before felt nervous walking 50 metres to a cafe in the daytime. Rio is divided into four zones. North, West, Centro and South.

Stay in the South. The safest zone. This covers Copacabana, Ipanema, Leme and Leblon. The best beaches, bars and restaurants and most of the attractions you’ll want to see. It’s more expensive but Rio is not the place you want to skimp on accommodation.

Where to watch Rio Carnival

The original Carnival parade was held through the streets of Rio but in 1984 this switched to the purpose built Sambadrome – like a big sports stadium – where you buy tickets, sit in the grandstand with 70,000 screaming fans and watch the floats of the samba schools parade around the arena.

You can get tickets from $US100 up to $US490 for a front row seat. (But here’s a little tip. If you want to experience the Sambadrome but don’t want to pay big money to get in you can get a ticket for what’s called Access Groups for as little as $US20 to watch the smaller budget schools trying to qualify for next year’s main event)

If you miss out on a ticket or don’t want to pay at all, a fun alternative is to attend one of the 500 or so block parties or “blocos” spread through the city. These are street parties organised by local communities and have bands, dancers and dazzling costumes and everyone is welcome to join in. Food vendors and alcohol sellers set up on the street and it’s definitely a vibe! 

Is it safe to travel to Rio de Janeiro?

When you head out for some Carnival action leave your watch and jewellery back at the hotel. You are too easy a target for the pickpockets. You even have to watch your phone if you hold it up to take a selfie. It can easily get snatched out of your hand. Move with the crowds and don’t take any short cuts down quiet side streets. Women should never walk alone. If you’re with a group the surging crowds mean you could get separated from your friends so organise a meeting point in advance.  

Getting around

Rio has an excellent metro system that is clean and reliable and will get you to most places you want to go. Obviously, during Carnival it is very crowded so be extra careful of pickpockets in the packed carriages. Buses aren’t really considered as safe. Especially at night.

Ubers or official taxis are fine just expect delays with the crowded streets. English is not as widely spoken as you might think especially the further you stray from the main tourist centres so don’t necessarily count on locals to be able to help you with directions if you get lost

Don’t let all the safety advice put you off going. Carnival is a major bucket list item.

Yes, it’s wild, yes, it’s crazy but taking a bit more care will help ensure you maximise the fun and minimise the risk. 

John Walsh was Executive Producer of the TV travel series Getaway from 1999-2024.